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Date: 2002-08 atari800xl.org comp.sys.atari.8bit
Atari 8-bit PPP/DGS products on PC CD-ROM  
 
1.  Andreas Magenheimer  
 More options Aug 1 2002, 4:03 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: Andreas Magenheimer <magea@students.uni-mainz.de> -
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:03:28 +0200
Local: Thurs, Aug 1 2002 4:03 am
Subject: Re: Atari 8-bit PPP/DGS products on PC CD-ROM
| | | | | |
Well,
I am a student. And at the moment I do not own a credit card. sounds
strange to many americans, but here in Germany you don`t get your credit
card that easy (there must be some minimum income to get a credit card
and as a student you *mostly* cannot reach that minimum;). Maybe cash,
cashier cheques, money order and other things should also be allowed.
whenever I order something in the US I use money order...    -Andreas.

Dean Garraghty schrieb:


 
 
2.  Fox-1  
 More options Aug 1 2002, 7:18 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: "Fox-1" <MailMe@f@home.nl> -
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 12:18:38 +0200
Local: Thurs, Aug 1 2002 7:18 pm
Subject: Re: Atari 8-bit PPP/DGS products on PC CD-ROM
| | | | | |

> > Please go over to my site at and click the link

"Andreas Magenheimer" wrote

> I am a student. And at the moment I do not own a credit card.

Let me know by private Email (you know where) if you want one.  I order one for myself early next week anyways, so an extra one
wouldn't hurt.  Can bring it with me to the UnConventional 2002 party, assuming I've received them by then...

--

Grtx, Sysop Fox-1                          

                  Remember what the Dormouse said...


 
 
3.  Dan Vernon  
 More options Aug 1 2002, 1:42 pm
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: "Dan Vernon" <newsgro@retrobits.net> -
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:46:28 -0700
Local: Thurs, Aug 1 2002 1:46 pm
Subject: Re: Atari 8-bit PPP/DGS products on PC CD-ROM
| | | | | |

"Ryan Collins" <gozarcollins.hotm@NoSpam.com> wrote in message

...
> In article <b5Z19.52674$5x.5673@zwoll1.home.nl>,
> "Fox-1" <MailMe@f@home.nl> wrote:

> >"Daniel Miller" wrote

> >> >than I've had. I spent about 50 hours over 2 weeks, often working late
at
> >> >night to produce this CD, and so far I've only sold FOUR copies! I'm
sure we

> >> Five, but you will have to wait for the letter I mailed yesterday.

> >Make that six, but I have to wait until I can get to the post-office to

get my credit-card, required to activate my paypal

> >account...

> Ok, now seven... (Almost double!)

> --
> Ryan 'Gozar' Collins

Lets up that to eight... hey now!
-Dan

 
PPP/DGS CD - New ways to pay!  
 
1.  Dean Garraghty  
 More options Aug 1 2002, 5:59 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: "Dean Garraghty" <d@clara.net> -
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:50:20 +0100
Local: Thurs, Aug 1 2002 5:50 am
Subject: PPP/DGS CD - New ways to pay!
| | | | | |
Hello All,

It is becoming apparent that some people don't want to buy the CD by credit
card, so I have now decided to accept payments in cash in either US$ or UK
pounds Sterling. The preferred method is still credit/debit/charge card via
the website. I have added this section to the CD-ROM info/order page on the
website (

Paying with a credit/debit/charge card using PayPal is by far the easiest
and cheapest way of paying for the CD. However, if you feel you don't want
to use a card, or can't use a card, I can also accept payment in cash in
either US$ or UK pounds Sterling. However, cash exchange fees at the bank
are way more than credit cards. For this reason, the cash price is US$20,
because the bank charge
$5 to exchange it into UK pounds. Or, you can pay in UK pounds in cash. The
price in UK pounds is 10 pounds. It could well be cheaper for US users to go
to their local bank and get 10 pounds in cash. Sending cash is at the
senders risk. However, I've found the best way is to put the cash inside a
smaller envelope inside the main one. I've never had a single $ go missing
over the last 10 years using the old
double envelope technique! UK based users may pay for the CD by cheque (10
pounds). Cheques from other countries are NOT valid in the UK.

The website has more ordering details, including the address to send order
to.

I hope this helps!

Dean Garraghty


 
 
2.  Ryan Collins  
 More options Aug 1 2002, 10:50 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: gozarcollins.hotm@NoSpam.com (Ryan Collins) -
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:20:17 -0400
Local: Thurs, Aug 1 2002 10:20 am
Subject: Re: PPP/DGS CD - New ways to pay!
| | | | | |
In article <1028149160.6635@doris.uk.clara.net>,

"Dean Garraghty" <d@clara.net> wrote:
>It could well be cheaper for US users to go
>to their local bank and get 10 pounds in cash.

I don't know, 10 pounds in cash is a lot of money! :-)

BTW, I'm glad you accept PayPal.

--
Ryan 'Gozar' Collins


 
 
3.  Andreas Magenheimer  
 More options Aug 6 2002, 12:00 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: Andreas Magenheimer <magea@students.uni-mainz.de> -
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 17:00:29 +0200
Local: Tues, Aug 6 2002 12:00 am
Subject: Re: PPP/DGS CD - New ways to pay!
| | | | | |
Well,
thats good news to me. So I will order the CD (sending cash in UK pounds
to you). Hopefully the UK will use Euros soon... -Andreas.

Dean Garraghty schrieb:


 
Connector Oxidation  
 
1.  Fox-1  
 More options Aug 1 2002, 7:10 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: "Fox-1" <MailMe@f@home.nl> -
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 12:08:02 +0200
Local: Thurs, Aug 1 2002 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: Connector Oxidation
| | | | | |

"James E. King" wrote

> >> I also run both my blackbox' and my 130XE's on the same switching
> PC powersupply
> Could you supply the wiring specs (pin-out) for making this type of
> connection?

Depends a bit on the used connector on the black-box.  Both mines have different connectors.  The colors described below (AT xxx)
are the ones I found and used on all 3 of my AT PC powersupplies.  Verify the voltages first before connecting anything!

Take the connector that usually connects to the AT mainboard.  Find the right voltages and feed those to the blackbox.

If you have a 4-pin connector on your blackbox (when looking to the backside of the blackbox):

 +5V  (AT red)  most left pin on BB
  0V  (AT black) second pin on BB
+12V  (AT yellow) third pin on BB
-12V  (AT blue) most right pin on BB (only required for RS232 port)

And the same for if your blackbox has a 7-pin connector (N.C.=not connected):

 +5V  (AT red)  most left pin on BB
  N.C.  second pin on BB
  0V  (AT black) third pin on BB
  N.C. fourth pin on BB
+12V  (AT yellow) fifth pin on BB
  N.C.  sixth pin on BB
-12V  (AT blue) most right pin on BB (only required for RS232 port)

If your powersupply for some reason has no -12V, you may also use -5V for this (white color???) as the RS232 port will still work
in 99% of the cases (depends on how picky your modem/serial-printer/whatever is)

To power the ATARI XL/XE computer (not 400/800/1200XL!!!) take a 7-pin DIN connector, solder wires on it as desribed on my site
  and connect those to one of the 4-pin peripheral connectors on the powersupply
(same colors as above, but check it first).  You can also use an old cable from a dead original ATARI powersupply for this.
Connect the "ground" to the 0V line.  I know a 5-pin DIN also fits into the 7-pin socket in the ATARI but try to avoid using that
option since it will exactly fit into the monitor-output socket also!  Be sure the 0V and +5V wires are not reversed!  When having
checked that, re-check it again to be very sure.  Nothing is so simple that it can't go wrong...

Hower I didn't do this myself, It's not a bad idea to mount a 2 Amp fuse in between the +5V line and your ATARI.  If something goes
wrong into the ATARI, a normal powersupply would lower it's voltage due to overload.  Your AT one however keeps pumping until it's
400 Watt limit is reached.  I have a nice example of a 130XE PCB laying around of what may happen.  Ever seen the inside of a
POKEY, an NE555 or a GTIA, connected to absolutely nothing but still at the right place on the PCB?  :-))

> I'm move my 8bit setup to the inside of an AT case

Nice, but some dis-advantages.  First is, the keyboard.  With some trail and error you can extend the keyboard flatcable, but you
can not safely extend the cartridge connector.

> Also, do you have any XF551 or 1050 drives connected to the PC
> switching PS? If so, how did you wire that?

XF551 Is easy, however there are two ways to do this.  The easy one is the remove the 7812 stabilizer and solder a wire in the PCB
at the place from the output of the 7812 (right pin iirc).  Connect this wire to the +12V of one of the peripheral connectors from
the powersupply (usually the yellow line) and connect 0V to it.  This is how I done it in my car, except the power-supply was a 12V
car-battery in this case.

This will work, but doesn't solve the heat problem into the XF551.  To also solve that, do the same trick again with the 7805
stabilizer and connect it to the +5V in stead of the +12V.  You may have to remove the big capacitors, or better, replace them for
small ones (low capacity, same voltage).  Some AT powersupplies don't like huge capacitive (or inductive) peripherals.

Same for the 1050, except there is no easy option here.  You always have the remove both the 7805 and 7812 stabilizers and likely
have to swap the capacitors in here also.

--

Grtx, Sysop Fox-1                          

                  Remember what the Dormouse said...


 
 
2.  Bob Woolley  
 More options Aug 1 2002, 11:00 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: "Bob Woolley" <atari@directvinternet.com> -
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 18:56:01 -0700
Local: Thurs, Aug 1 2002 10:56 am
Subject: Re: Connector Oxidation
| | | | | |
What makes you say that you cannot extend the cartridge connector? I did,
and it seems to be OK. The cartridge sits up in one of the spare 5 1/4 drive
bays....

Bob

"Fox-1" <MailMe@f@home.nl> wrote in message

...

> "James E. King" wrote

> > >> I also run both my blackbox' and my 130XE's on the same switching
> > PC powersupply

> > Could you supply the wiring specs (pin-out) for making this type of
> > connection?

> Depends a bit on the used connector on the black-box.  Both mines have

different connectors.  The colors described below (AT xxx)
> are the ones I found and used on all 3 of my AT PC powersupplies.  Verify

the voltages first before connecting anything!

> Take the connector that usually connects to the AT mainboard.  Find the

right voltages and feed those to the blackbox.

> If you have a 4-pin connector on your blackbox (when looking to the

backside of the blackbox):

this (white color???) as the RS232 port will still work
> in 99% of the cases (depends on how picky your

modem/serial-printer/whatever is)

> To power the ATARI XL/XE computer (not 400/800/1200XL!!!) take a 7-pin DIN

connector, solder wires on it as desribed on my site
>   and connect those to

one of the 4-pin peripheral connectors on the powersupply
> (same colors as above, but check it first).  You can also use an old cable

from a dead original ATARI powersupply for this.
> Connect the "ground" to the 0V line.  I know a 5-pin DIN also fits into

the 7-pin socket in the ATARI but try to avoid using that
> option since it will exactly fit into the monitor-output socket also!  Be

sure the 0V and +5V wires are not reversed!  When having
> checked that, re-check it again to be very sure.  Nothing is so simple

that it can't go wrong...

> Hower I didn't do this myself, It's not a bad idea to mount a 2 Amp fuse

in between the +5V line and your ATARI.  If something goes
> wrong into the ATARI, a normal powersupply would lower it's voltage due to

overload.  Your AT one however keeps pumping until it's
> 400 Watt limit is reached.  I have a nice example of a 130XE PCB laying

around of what may happen.  Ever seen the inside of a
> POKEY, an NE555 or a GTIA, connected to absolutely nothing but still at

the right place on the PCB?  :-))

> > I'm move my 8bit setup to the inside of an AT case

> Nice, but some dis-advantages.  First is, the keyboard.  With some trail

and error you can extend the keyboard flatcable, but you
> can not safely extend the cartridge connector.

> > Also, do you have any XF551 or 1050 drives connected to the PC
> > switching PS? If so, how did you wire that?

> XF551 Is easy, however there are two ways to do this.  The easy one is the

remove the 7812 stabilizer and solder a wire in the PCB
> at the place from the output of the 7812 (right pin iirc).  Connect this

wire to the +12V of one of the peripheral connectors from
> the powersupply (usually the yellow line) and connect 0V to it.  This is

how I done it in my car, except the power-supply was a 12V
> car-battery in this case.

> This will work, but doesn't solve the heat problem into the XF551.  To

also solve that, do the same trick again with the 7805
> stabilizer and connect it to the +5V in stead of the +12V.  You may have

to remove the big capacitors, or better, replace them for
> small ones (low capacity, same voltage).  Some AT powersupplies don't like

huge capacitive (or inductive) peripherals.

> Same for the 1050, except there is no easy option here.  You always have

the remove both the 7805 and 7812 stabilizers and likely


 
 
3.  Fox-1  
 More options Aug 2 2002, 6:48 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: "Fox-1" <MailMe@f@home.nl> -
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 11:48:05 +0200
Local: Fri, Aug 2 2002 6:48 pm
Subject: Re: Connector Oxidation
| | | | | |

"Bob Woolley" wrote

> What makes you say that you cannot extend the cartridge connector?

Experience while trying it.

> I did,
> and it seems to be OK. The cartridge sits up in one of the spare 5 1/4 drive
> bays....

May work when the leads are short, but try to extend it with a black-box attached to it, and then insert a R-Time8 and the game
"Into the Eagles Nest" (or probably any other 32K or up XE-type cartridge).  Without the R-Time8 it goes a little better, but the
game still crashes every now and then.

Tried on XL's and XE's machines, and the game is unplayable (probably goes wrong when switching rom-banks).  Without the
extension-ribbon-cable, no problems at all.

--

Grtx, Sysop Fox-1                          

                  Remember what the Dormouse said...


 
 
4.  Bob Woolley  
 More options Aug 2 2002, 9:44 am
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.8bit
From: "Bob Woolley" <atari@directvinternet.com> -
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 17:40:25 -0700
Local: Fri, Aug 2 2002 9:40 am
Subject: Re: Connector Oxidation
| | | | | |
Is it only with a BlackBox attached? On an 800XL, for example, with a BB and
an extended cartridge connector? How did you extend the cartridge connector?
How long was your cable?

I am going to get a BB in the near future - I'd like to see what problems it
causes on the system. I need specific conditions to test it under - if
anyone else has a problem with BB or MIO, I'd appreciate hearing about it.

Bob

"Fox-1" <MailMe@f@home.nl> wrote in message

...

> "Bob Woolley" wrote

> > What makes you say that you cannot extend the cartridge connector?

> Experience while trying it.

> > I did,
> > and it seems to be OK. The cartridge sits up in one of the spare 5 1/4
drive
> > bays....

> May work when the leads are short, but try to extend it with a black-box

attached to it, and then insert a R-Time8 and the game
> "Into the Eagles Nest" (or probably any other 32K or up XE-type

cartridge).  Without the R-Time8 it goes a little better, but the
> game still crashes every now and then.

> Tried on XL's and XE's machines, and the game is unplayable (probably goes

wrong when switching rom-banks).  Without the


 

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